FINNMARK - 2006 |
Monday 6th February 2006
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At 10:45 hrs after a breakfast of Pizza we departed London for Oslo where we had more Pizza, then a second flight to Alta two hundred miles north of the Arctic Circle. The airport at Alta was about the size of a service station with none of the traffic problems experienced at Heathrow. There was such a lack of traffic that even our arranged taxi failed to show up leaving us to chill out quite literately in the car park while another one was organised by Mike. We eventually arrived at our Chalet in Alta Strand Camping. It seems that long since retiring from making action films in the seventies Charles Bronson has taken to running a camp site and welcomed us with fresh towels and bed linen. After some essential admin we headed into the town for a hearty meal of Pizza and a few beers. |
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Tuesday 7th February 2006
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After a relatively early start we all had breakfast before unpacking the skis to sort out the fitting and to have a practice. The views were fantastic with a good clear sky over the mountains and the river running next to the camp site. We all took our skis and fiddled with the attachments to try and get a good fit before gingerly setting off on practice runs. I was relieved to find that I hadn’t forgotten although a little out of practice. Naomi and Darren had never put a pair of skis on before but both scooted down the track in a wobbly kind of confidence. Proud of our first attempts that confidence was slightly dented when Charles Bronson came out of his office with a smile saying “First time yah?” This would become the trip phrase and title of the video. That afternoon we walked into town and collected supplies for the trip such as fuel salami and pita bread. We headed back to the chalet for more admin then into town again for a hearty meal of Pizza and a few beers. | |
Wednesday 8th February 2006
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After another short trip into town we spent the afternoon packing the sledges and preparing the equipment so that there would be nothing to do the following morning. Darren had clearly misunderstood the packing list, and Mike tore into his kit with the ferocity of the Women’s Institute at a jumble sale, removing enough spare thermals to supply the Chinese Army. Naomi practiced lighting the stoves while I captured the carnage on video. Once the packing was done we headed back into town and to our relief managed to find something other than Pizza to eat. After a great Chinese meal we filmed individual interviews for pre expedition thoughts and feelings before heading off to bed. |
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Thursday 9th February 2006
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Eventually we made it onto the ice road, which is a small skidoo route used by
the locals and the plateau began to level out. Naomi began to feel that the
going was getting a lot easier and seemed very pleased with herself until
Darren noticed that her sledge was no longer attached. She had to ski all the
way back to it and then start again, but after the obligatory laughter I went
back to help. We made a cosy camp on a tiny frozen lake at 4pm and it would be
the shortest day we would have. |
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Friday 10th February 2006
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Saturday 11th February 2006
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I waited for the others to catch up and made an excuse for Naomi to wait behind.
She appeared a bit annoyed that I was allowing a gap to build between us and
the other two as she had struggled to keep up through most of the day. “I feel
like I’ve been playing catch up all day, I’m having a bit of a moment.” she
announced. “Let me see if I can cheer you up” I said as I got down one knee and
fumbled with my gloves on to reach into my pocket. I managed to get the box out
but was forced to open it with my mouth and produced a ring. “Will you marry
me?” “Oh of course I will!” An immense feeling of relief and elation went
through me, and as I rose to my feet Naomi lovingly said “I thought you were
getting me a fisherman’s friend.” We caught up with the other two who stood staring at us quizzingly before I gave them the good news that she had accepted. We skied on into the dark to make the far bank of the lake camping just short of it. As usual Naomi got the stoves going while we erected and dug it the tent. This meant that by the time we were all inside it was nice and warm. My diary entry that night read “Now the happiest man on earth, and what an earth!” |
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Sunday 11th February 2006
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That night we made camp at 16:20 hrs overlooking a valley. With the promise of lemon cake and custard Darren and I got the tent up in record time. After pudding and Vodka a game of Charades began. Naomi’s attempt at describing the classic film “Where Eagles Dare” had us all rolling around in stitches for the rest of the trip. |
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Monday 13th February 2006
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Forest seemed to spread into the distance and it came to me that the lyrics from Monty Pythons song about Finland may have been based on fact. We could now see the beginnings of civilisation and I felt sad about it. We still had two more days of skiing but the odd hut could be seen and we were coming across fences belonging to Reindeer pens. That night we put the tent up in Force 6 winds with a -20 oC wind chill which made great video footage but hampered our efforts slightly. Still we managed it and good nights sleep was had by all. |
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Tuesday 14th February 2006. (Valentines Day)
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We got out of bed to admire beautiful views over forests and a frozen lake in half light at 06:47 hrs. There was a lot of down hill to the forests and our decent towards the river that would take us to Karasjok. Darren not being the biggest fan of the down hill stretches spent most of it on his backside, much to our amusement. As we descended we came across a Ranger post which officially signified the end of wilderness. Excitement about what food we were going to eat monopolised our conversations with Pizza being a firm favourite amongst the others. I still was determined to sample a local reindeer dish however. It didn’t take long for the Skidoos to show up again and spoil the silence but I suppose in deep snow there is no other way for them to get to work. We travelled through the forest and took the opportunity to have a toboggan race down a particularly steep section sitting on our sledges. Once out of the forest we came onto the frozen river which we were to follow into Karasjok and made camp on the river in the dark. As we were setting up a team of dogs came yapping up the river. As they approached us they slowed down and stopped as the dogs got confused at the tent now erected in the middle of their path. To make them more confused Naomi took a picture with flash blinding everyone and the dogs resulting in the Musher having to guide them around by hand. That night I was presented with a chunk of snow decorated in little chocolate hearts and a dozen miniature red roses by Naomi. She had been carrying them the whole way. |
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Wednesday 15th February 2006
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We only had a short trip today travelling along the river into the Sámi town of
Karasjok. I had been looking forward to getting there as I had read a lot about
the Sámi and their culture. They are the local indigenous people of the
Scandinavian Arctic and are traditionally Reindeer herders. We set off walking
with ski’s on sledges as the river was so solid it was easier than skiing.
Naomi seemed more impatient than the rest of us to finish with a craving for
Coke. At every bend in the river I made her feel better by stating “It’s only
around the next bend.” I said this about six times and I’m not sure it was
appreciated. Eventually that final bend came and the bridge at Karasjok
suddenly appeared. We walked up the steep bank onto the bridge before heading
immediately to a Café for some proper food. The days of expedition meals and
salami had left us ravenous for a decent meal. The other three all ordered
burgers and chips but I am glad to say I finally managed to try a traditional
Reindeer meal which was delicious. A taxi was then ordered to take us back to
Alta and after sorting out our Admin and having a long awaited shower we headed
into town for PIZZA! The expedition was one of the best I have been on - and despite the amazing views, weather and the challenge of the environment it was made by the company in which we travelled. Mike is an unstoppable character with real knowledge and skill for the Arctic environment. Darren has to be one of the nicest and most sincere men I have had the pleasure to meet and although I didn’t know him before the trip I now regard him as a true friend. As for Naomi, well we are due to be married in September 2007 and the expedition served only to confirm to me that I will never meet anyone quite as special as she is. Stuart Ship. |